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Azure Sept/Oct 2024 issue cover

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Just off the Atlantic coast, the mouth of the Minha River denotes the national border between Portugal and Spain. On the south riverbank, the medieval town of Caminha is the first major inland settlement, forming part of the legendary Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail. Yet, for all the historic architecture and picturesque surroundings, the 20th century saw the water’s edge remade in a network of roadways and parking lots. Fortunately, the recently completed Mercado Caminha is a notable exception.

Designed by Portuguese architects Loftspace and Tiago Sousa, the 900-square-metre farmer’s market replaces a structurally unsound older hub. Cobbled together via a series of extensions and additions, the former market, which was increasingly threatened by a failing roof, was not designed to support the organic social life that thrived despite its obvious spatial limitations. For the new Mercado Caminha, the integration of a modern market hall — complete with hygienic, state-of-the-art facilities — is paired with generous public spaces that support a meeting place and civic hub.

And it makes a statement. Situated along the waterfront — and near the historic heart of Caminha — the reimagined farmer’s market meets the city and the river with an elegantly pared down concrete expression. A grid of rectilinear columns frames the simple, boxy form, creating a sheltered arcade along the exterior. Loading bays and service spaces are carefully inserted along the northern frontage, minimizing disruption to the new pedestrian-oriented public realm that now surrounds the market.

Inside, the simple concrete market hall is accented by a handsome waffle slab ceiling. Prioritizing access to natural light and easy cleaning, servicing and maintenance, the simple open hall includes a variety of spaces specifically designed for fish vendors — a key local industry. The inviting open room is paired with back-of-house spaces — including changing rooms and cold storage for vendors, as well as an administrative office — which are strategically clustered alongside the loading and service bays.

On the more public-facing southern elevation, meanwhile, a series of four flexible commercial spaces can be organized as market vendors or enclosed standalone shops accessed from the street.

While the Mercado Caminha offers an austere — albeit graceful — first impression, the building’s simplicity creates a welcoming canvas for the bustle of the market hall and the everyday joys of public life. As the design team puts it, the place is a meeting point. “By being flooded with natural light, varied by the position of the sun throughout the day, an emotional and dynamic scenario typical of the market image and experience is created,” note the architects.

Brutalist Simplicity Elevates a Portuguese Farmer’s Market

Mercado Caminha celebrates the civic functions of the grocery hall, combining fish and vegetables with dynamic public life.

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